Simple or not, trolling works
Sitting in front of a computer monitor and trolling from the air conditioned comforts of the office can be a fun, but trolling behind a slowly purring outboard across the surface of promising water usually proves more rewarding and productive.
On the surface, pulling a lure behind a boat in an effort to locate fish is not exactly rocket science. But like all aspects of angling, trolling can take on a more complicated and exacting light in order to maximize efficiency.
In its simplest terms, trolling allows an angler to cover expanses of water or repeatedly cover a particular structure. Most often in Texas waters, open water species such as whites, hybrids, stripers, and freshwater redfish are targeted. Of course, largemouth bass, crappie, and catfish have been known to hit lures working behind a boat.
The keys to successful trolling are depth, speed, presentation, and location of fish.
Depth
The depth achieved by trolling any lure (or retrieving after a cast, for that matter) is determined by four factors: speed (see below), amount of line in the water, line diameter, and lure weight.
For this example, let’s pretend that we’re trolling a Norman DD22 crankbait. It’s a large deep diving crankbait with a big lip which creates lots of water resistance. The 22 in its name supposedly represents how deep it will dive. The actual diving depth may not even come close, depending these factors listed above.
The further the crankbait is trolled behind the boat, the deeper it will go. Some trollers recommend dropping the crankbait into the water with the boat in neutral and the reel freelined, while the boat is put into gear at the trolling speed. The angler then counts 1-Mississippi, 2-Mississippi, etc. up to 20 before the reel is engaged.
Some folks troll the lure right behind the boat. I’m not sure why, because the lure isn't achieving maximum depth, although white bass have been known to swim through prop wash. Maybe they like two-stroke exhaust. But on lakes which receive heavy traffic, it helps to run the bait behind the boat a spell.
Lighter line offers less resistance and will allow crankbaits to go deeper than heavier line. Of course if you go too light and happen upon a nice hybrid or big red, you run the risk of breaking off. Proper drag setting is imperative. I prefer to drop the motor into neutral when a fish is on so as not to overstress the line. Plus, this reduces the number of fish lost due to pulled hooks.
If maximized depth is intended, a rod held parallel to the water’s surface will dig deeper than a rod placed vertically in a rod holder.
Speed
Proper lure speed is another inexact science that can be perfected through time spent on the water. Generally, the slowest speed in which a lure’s effective action is maintained is ideal. On many boats, this is realized at the slowest speed of the boat while the motor is in gear and under power. Progressing under a strong head wind may necessitate additional forward motion on the throttle. Troll too fast and your lure runs the risk of spinning, wobbling recklessly out of tune, or skiing across the surface. Slow things down even more by dragging a drift sock or a five gallon bucket tossed off the back of the transom.
Presentation
Essentially, presentation is dependent upon depth and speed. Naturally, different lures each have their own pros and cons which effect proper presentation. For reference, let’s define presentation as a lure’s action in an effective “zone,” or particular location in the water column. Most open water species, when actively feeding, will tag a bait at or above the fish’s location in the water column. Chances are they will not hit a bait being trolled underneath them, especially when they’re suspended.
Without downriggers, exact presentation is a guessing game, but through trial, error, and experimentation, much of the guesswork can be eliminated, allowing the angler to track his lure’s whereabouts consistently.
Naturally, some lures benefit from performance enhancing modifications. It’s no secret that reds and hybrids love Rattletraps, but these lipless crankbaits don't troll very deep. To give them a little diving incentive, it helps to place a 1/2 to 1 oz. egg sinker on the main line, then a barrel swivel, than a leader with a ¼ oz or ½ oz. Rattletrap on the end.
Another classic one-two punch modification is the Hellbender/Pet Spoon combo. The shad-like flutter of a #13 Tony Accetta Pet Spoon has accounted for untold numbers of reds, whites, hybrids, and stripers over the years. Flatline trolling a #13 behind the boat will see the lure gingerly maxing out at two or three feet below the surface. Take a Heddon Hellbender, cut off the hooks, attach a leader to the rear swivel with the Pet Spoon on the business end and you’ve got a poor man’s downrigger which will propel the Accetta below 15 feet. With a ¾ oz. weight added to the front hook screw on the Hellbender, the combo will bottom bump at 20-21 feet.
Those diving planes work well, getting lighter baits down to fish-holding levels. But trolling allows for considerably creativity. The angler who’s fortunate to run across discontinued Norman FrontRunners has come across a gold mine, as these shad-imitators are effective a foot or two above a favorite crankbait. Striper jigs or twister tails can be used as trailers behind a planer or Hellbender. Or try a Pet Spoon a couple of feet behind a Shad Rap, DD14 or DD22, or Rebel Deep Wee-R. A Bomber Long A, normally a shallow running stick bait, performs nicely behind a planer or weighted with a keel weight or Lindy Baitwalker. The possibilities are endless.
Two lures trolled from one rod means that leader material should be chosen accordingly. If money is no object, use a leader that is heavier than your main line, especially when trolling for brutes like hybrids, reds, or stripers. However, if the front or rear lure gets hung up, kiss two lures goodbye. Conversely, a lighter leader will allow for a retrieved planer if the trailer snags. But when that 15 pound striper inhales the trailer, a light leader is less forgiving and may be cause for disappointment.
Troll Where the Fish Are
The trolling equation is complete when baits are dragged through prime locations. Open water feeders can be found practically anywhere on a given body of water, but keying in on certain areas helps to eliminate guesswork. The same subsurface features that have been written about for decades are key, such as points, humps, drop offs, edges of river channels and secondary creek channels, holes, rip rap or changes in bottom composition, above treetops, along weedlines, etc.
Quality electronics aren’t necessary but certainly help to put the odds in the fisherman’s favor. With a decent graph, it’s easy to identify schools of baitfish. Coupled with a marker tossed overboard, the same area can be trolled repeatedly or worked more precisely by casting or fishing vertically.
Trolling is a great way to locate fish during the summer months. A moving boat will catch any hint of breeze, and with an ice chest close at hand, it’s a great way to cover water and solve the world’s problems.
Live below the limit—help ensure great fishing for future generations.
